Greyhound Goes Shopping

 

Essential Stuff You Will Need:

-Martingale -Muzzle -Identification Tags -Bed and Blankets -Toys -Greyhound Jacket -Water and Food Bowls -Raised Feeding Stations for Water and Food Bowls -Dog Brush -Dog Toothpaste and Toothbrush -Baby Gates -Dog Food -Dog Bisciuts

 

Martingale

You will need a Martingale, which is a collar geared especially for Greyhounds -- do not use any other collars; in place of the Martingale. The next best thing to a martingale collar is a slip collar or a buckle hound collar, which is narrow at the buckle, located at the back of neck, and it has wide at front of neck. Body harnesses, are not all that great because body harnesses donít allow signals that dogs understand. It also puts an uncomfortable and pointless pressure behind elbows, which encourage dogs to pull. Your Greyhound adoption group will usually provide a martingale for you for free. Regular dog collars don' t work because your Greyhound can slip out of it, which means you would have to adjust it to a tight fit, which will result in choking your Greyhound and irritating his skin, which will make his neck raw. The martingale automatically adjust itself based on tension. In place of the martingale, use a dog harness.

Standard Leash

Use a standard leash -- don't use a retractable leash -- in the event that your Greyhound gets a burst of energy, he might abruptly pull forward, and a retractable leash attached to his Martingale will snap his neck -- remember, your retired racer can get up to 45 MPH in about three strides.

Turn-Out Muzzles

Turn-out muzzles are plastic muzzles used by trainers when the racers are exercising; they look like the ones used for racing except that the turn-outs muzzles are plastic; I prefer the nylon muzzles -- click on the image at the right to view and purchase a nylon muzzle for your Greyhound. You might consider using this nylon muzzle if you are going to introduce your retired racer to children or small pets for the first time -- usually, your adoption group will ask you, prior to releasing the greyhound to you, whether or not you have small pets and children. If so, the adoption group has socialization programs that work with the greyhound to get him socialized with children, cats, dogs, and other animals.

Raised Feeding Stations for Water and Food Bowls

Because your Greyhound is tall and long necked, he cannot bend down to the floor to eat his food or drink his water; he will choke and strain his neck and back. So, put his food and water bowls on a raised feeding station or a chair.
Also, it's best to use stainless steel water and food bowls, as opposed to plastic water and food bowls, which can cause allergic reactions.

Identification Tags

Your adoption center should have the tags that show the contact information for the adoption center and rabies shot. I recommend getting an additional tag that has your dog's name and your contact telephone number.

Bed Pad

The bed pad must be thick enough to provide comfort and protect the Greyhound's boney joints; they don't have fat to cushion them in a crate, bed, or floor, so make sure the pad is thick enough. The pad should be washable; and, durable because the greyhound likes to dig at their beds and pads before resting down on them.

Dog Bed

Do not get cedar filled dog beds -- they are extremely uncomfortable. The bed should be durable for digging activities -- Greyhounds like to dig at their beds and pads before resting on them. Also, they should be machine washable. Make sure the bed is big enough for them to lay their entire body. The beds that have filling made out of little beads, like a bean bag, is a great bed. Make sure that the dimensions of your Greyhound's dog bed are as follows: Jumbo: For dogs larger than 75 Lbs (34 kg): 44 inches by 54 inches (111.7 cm by 137 cm): Make sure the dog bed cover is washable and zipper removable -- that way, you can wash it.

Greyhound Jackets

Greyhounds have little or not fat; their skin is long and thin, and do not provide insulation in cold weather; hence, a coat is needed to keep him warm and dry during his walks. A snood is a wonderful coat for your greyhound -- it's like a hood that covers his neck and part of his head.

Doggie Toothbush and Toothpaste

Greyhounds are prone to dental problems; hence, it's important to keep your Greyhound's teeth clean by regular brushing. I brush Miles's teeth every night -- once a day -- after his dinner. After he eats his breakfast, I give him two big dog biscuits to clean his teeth. Neglecting dental hygiene for your Greyhound can shorten his life because, like human beings, oral and dental infections can take place, which inevitably creates injury to the heart, kidneys, lungs, liver, and other vital organs.

Tia Resleure, says, "Sighthounds have more gum disease problems because of the structure of their jaws, tightness of lips, and dryness of mouth. Pitted enamel is another reason that sighthounds are more prone to gum disease; however, just because your Greyhound or IG doesn't have pitted enamel, doesn't mean that you should not conduct daily brushings on your dog's teeth, nor does it mean that you don't need to get your dog's teeth professionally cleaned." I treat Miles's teeth, as if they were my own.

Also, try to find unflavored toothpaste; the flavored toothpaste can make brushing your dog's teeth difficult because it encourages the licking an eating response.

Remember: Dog biscuits, dry food, other chews, and rinses can help keep the dogís mouth healthy but they are not adequate substitutes for daily brushings and scheduled teeth cleanings for your dog's dental health.

Miles also gets his teeth cleaned by Tia Resleure, Sausalito, CA: 415-489-8212 , who is a Dental Hygienist for Greyhounds and IGs. She performs Anesthesia-Free teeth cleaning for Greyhounds and IGs.

Another reason Greyhounds have a higher propensity for bad teeth because of the lack of enamel, which leaves the teeth prone to tartar build-up, which results in gum disease (e.g., gingivitis: gum inflamation) and tooth loss and jaw bone degeneration. If you notice tender and swollen gums that bleed easy, then your Greyhound might have gingivitis, which can lead to pyorrhea, which is bacterial plaque that destroys the periodontal tissue, which induces bad breath, ulcers, fevers, and other damages to the tissues in the mouth.

So, for these reasons, it's important to brush your Greyhound's teeth using a gentle doggie toothbrush and doggie toothpaste -- do not use toothpaste for humans. Some owners prefer using cheesecloth or a cotton ball in place of a toothbrush -- regardless of using a toothbrush or not, make sure that it is gentle on the gums and teeth.

Some pet stores sell a product called Nolvadent, which is a rinse-free anti-plaque gel or liquid product; however, you must use caution with this product. According to Tia, "Nolvadent is advertised as a rinse to be used instead of, or after, brushing because of itís anti-bacteria agent, chlorhexidine. Chlorhexidine is GREAT when you have gum problems, but constant of Chlorhexidine yellows the teeth -- something you donít want to do unless you must."


Another way to prevent dental problems is not to give your Greyhound food that has sugar in the ingredients. Giving your Greyhound chews designed to clean his teeth is also a good rememdy along with sugar-free biscuits -- these items must not replace daily brushings and professional teeth cleaning.

Depending on the severity of the dental condition of your Greyhound, your vet might have to execute teeth extraction -- make sure your vet specializes in Greyhounds because Greyhounds can experience adverse reactions to various sedatives, anti-biotics, and anethesia.

When you bring your Greyhound to the vet for a check-up, talk to your vet about scheduled cleaning, which might be once a year or every 18 months depending on the severity of plaque and tartar build-up. Remember to use a vet that specializes in Greyhounds because they are extremely sensitive to medications and anti-biotics, and they need specialized vet care when anethesia is used. Barbituates used in anesthesia can kill a Greyhound.

In place of using anesthesia for cleaning your Greyhound's teeth, I strongly recommend Anesthesia-Free Teeth Cleaning with Tia Resleure, Sausalito, CA: 415-489-8212 , who is a Dental Hygienist for Greyhounds and IGs. If you live in an area other than the Bay Area, please investigate Dental Hygienists in your area that are licensed and performs Anesthesia-Free teeth cleaning for Greyhounds.

If you are consistent in keeping your Greyhound's teeth clean, then you will increase the chances of having a happy and healthy Greyhound that can live up to 15 years or so.

Grooming Kit

Purchase a good quality dog brush for your Greyhound. Nightly brushings will keep his coat healthy and shiny, as well a minimizing the amount of shedding.

Shampoo

The best kind of shampoo for your Greyhound is the tearless puppy shampoo. If you need to use medicated shampoo, consult your vet to determine a medicated shampoo that's best for your Greyhound. It's important that you don't get the shampoo in your Greyhound's eyes -- especially if it's medicated shampoo.

Hypo Allergenic Shampoo also works well with Greyhounds, but if you notice a skin reaction, discontinue use of the product. Like other shampoos, you should check with your vet. When giving your Greyhound a bath, you might notice that he will collapse when warm water is applied -- don't worry this is a normal response; hence, you might need to have a helper with you during the bathing of your Greyhound. After bathing him, keep him from drafts and towel dry him -- don't let him outside until he is thoroughly dry. If it's hot and sunny, be careful not to let him be outside -- he can get sunburned.

Baby Gates

If you are not going to be home, it's best to limit access of your home by using a baby gate. I use the baby gate to keep Miles in his bedroom, while I'm away. Greyhounds don't like closed doors; they like to be able to see out.

Ear Cleaning

Weekly ear checking is needed for your Greyhound. His ears should have a healthy pink color to them, and there should never be any foul smelling odor or debris in the ears. If you notice debris in the ears and/or an odor, clean the ears with a cleanser like the one pictured to the right. Do not insert any fluids inside your Greyhound's ears. Cleaning should only be in the areas before the ear canal (opening to the ear). To clean your Greyhound's ears, use a cotton ball and dab the cleanser on to the cotton ball. Use the cotton ball to clean inside ear lobes -- make sure that no debris or liquids enter the ear canals. If your Greyhound is scatching his ears or shaking his head, consult a vet.